So I arrived in Irun late in the day due to all the problems with transport. I didn't fancy adding 10km to my first day walk so I took the bus out to Hondarribia and arrived at the lighthouse Cabo de Higuer. My original intention was to touch the sea here but the steep incline and jagged rocks put me off. I decided it would be a much better to dip my toes at the beach when I pass it. Already my rucksack felt ever present on my back and my shoulders felt little numb, "my god!" I thought, "this isn't even day one over yet." After an hour or so walking I arrived back in Irun.
I had arranged to surf the couch of a local Basque guy called Asier in the neighbouring French village of Hendaye which was another hours walk so I set about getting there. Just as I arrived in the town square to meet with Asier however my phone decided to take a shit. I was panic stricken, I had absolutely no way of contacting him, I speak zero French and only understand a little Spanish but no way of speaking it. I walked into a pancake restaurant and gesticulated that I needed somewhere to plug my phone into, unfortunately by the look of the waitress she thought I wanted sexy time or something. Eventually the owner of the cafe realised what I wanted and showed me to a socket.
Asier was a great host, he unbeknown to both of us took me to a nearby village to see a local celebration, that village would be my destination on the first day. Afterwards we returned to his house where I stole the use of his laptop to charge every last piece of electronics I had.
DAY 1.
The one thing I do know about these GR routes is that the have a really good way of sticking it in and breaking it off first thing in the morning. A near vertical walk for 25 minutes climbing out Irun had me on the ropes. I stopped to give my shoulders a bit of a rest and was passed by two young French lads going in the opposite direction looking in severe pain and knackered. Unfazed I slung on the bag of lead once more and was on my way.
Two things I learned very quickly my first day we not to trust immediately the GR markings or trust the GPS route that had written by a 2 year old with dyspracsia. I ended up lost on a steep inclined wood wishing I had just stayed at home on my ass.
After some wandering I found my way back on the route and continued. Before long I was passing one of the many roadside picnic areas that populate the Pyrenees, the smell of freshly grilling steak had me wishing of my kitchen and food.
Heading down a track following my GPS I quickly realised I was lost again the red and white markers of the route had stopped and the path was getting thinner. Backtracking 30 minutes or so had me back on route and at a perfect rest point. While enjoying my little sit down I was come across by two Valencians Eduardo and Ivan. We chatted for a couple of minutes before they continued on. After 20 minutes or so I packed up and continued on myself. After an hour or so of brisk walking I caught up to the two guys who were worried about their lack of water. I assured them we would find something a the upcoming lake, luckily we did a restaurant that served ice cold drinks and replenished our empty bottles.
Off again we went on a stiff inclined wooded track. I just couldn't keep up with the pace of the younger guys and told them I would see them in the town of Bera, I never did.
As up turned to down I caught up to the Valencians again but soon had to leave them in my wake as the two of them were floundering and I was fuelled by the thought of food and cider.
I arrived in Bera soon after 8 and after a couple of beers found the only bar with a free table and tucked into a plate of chicken, fried eggs, croquettes and bread, all washed down with local cider and to finish it off a glass of local liquor called Paxerran. I don't remember how I found campground or set the tent up but I did luckily.
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